Uganda and gorilla trekking
Uganda is a beautiful country with rolling hills and more banana fields than you can imagine. It exceeded my expectations and touched my heart in a way I never expected. The gorillas and the chimps are a massive selling point, but this country has so much more to offer. This is a birders paradise.
This is now one of my favourite African countries and I would encourage anyone who is looking for a unique but powerful experience to discover the magic I found unique to Uganda.
Day 1
I met up with Nisha and Vanessa, the Wild Frontiers girls at the departures hall for our flight. And then an easy 4 hour flight to Entebbe. First impressions – humid and fashionable!
Getting through custioms was pretty standard and without hassles ($50 visa fee). Martin the driver met us at the airport and transferred us to the Lake Victoria Hotel which was being renovated. There was some loud banging at midnight - I thought I was going to be arrested….no such luck!
Day 2
We took a stroll down the road and a walk through a taxi rank. This is where we were accosted by a few “motorbike taxi” drivers – these are moped type bikes with enough space for 2 very skinny people (not two of me, that’s for sure!!). Definitely need to try one out before I leave.
Went back to the hotel for an Amarula Cream and a chat to the ladies on the tour, before heading out to the Entebbe market. Food, clothes (second hand and new), hinges, shoes and beauty products, a real African market with vibrant colours and a buzz of activity. Came back the scenic route via Lake Victoria, some rather large mansions and squatter houses right next door to each other.
I am ready to move on. I am completely intrigued, excited and anxious.
Bring it on!
Day 3
So, the next time I say “bring it on”, slap me across the face and say be “careful what you wish for”! A few kilometers outside Entebbe it started raining and it hadn’t stopped by the time I went to bed. Under normal circumstances this would mean great driving weather…NOT in Uganda with its muddy dirt roads!
Just before our lunch stop we came across an angry mob running down the road carrying big sticks. Eventually we stopped to ask someone what was going on and apparently they had caught a thief and now it was time for mob justice. Eventually we didn’t see anymore people running and concluded that justice was done.
Two other vehicles were ahead of us enroute to Ndali Lodge, a beautiful lodge situated high on a hill. Because of this small piece of geography, our poor driver had to navigate the huge landcruiser up the slippiest sandiest mountain roads. Did I mention that it was still raining? Needless to say we got stuck. Beautifully and completely stuck.
Within moments we were completely surrounded by local villagers. In fact we got stuck right outside their homestead. The passengers stayed in the car, amusing the locals by taking pictures of them. You can imagine the shrieks of delight when they saw themselves on the camera screen.
Many attempts later help finally arrived. But instead of rescuing us, they decided to rescue the vehicle! We were sent to stand under a pigsty roof while a girl washed my (formerly) red sandals. I couldn’t bear to wear them after she had painstakingly washed them, and gave them to her, much to her delight.
We finally go the car unstuck and made it to the lodge in one piece.
Day 4
Woke up to no rain. Yay! Went on a farm walk (remembering closed shoes for the ants) and saw a vanilla plantation.
Then off to the Queen Elizabeth National Park. Can’t really notice the difference because there are villages and people wandering around in the park itself. When we stopped to look at a pride of lion and a man rode past on his bike, it felt rather surreal though.
Went for a quick cruise with some interesting folk. Saw lots of hippo and crocs and fantastic bird life. The boat trip has running commentary, but you won’t hear it if you are on the upper deck.
We got to our destination, Jacana Lodge at about 7 pm. This is a beautiful lodge overlooking a huge crater dam. And as an added bonus this was the first great meal of our trip!
Day 5
Got woken up at 6 am with a cup of hot chocolate and a wonderful view of the dam. What service and what a nice way to start the day!
We stopped at the Kyambura Gorge which is massive and offers Chimp trekking. You have a 40% chance of seeing the chimps. But it is a beautiful walk regardless. We weren’t lucky enough to see the chimps but it was great to get some exersize.
Onwards to Ishasha, the home of the tree climbing lion. We were lucky enough to spot one sleeping in a tree. The tents are spacious with twin beds and a bucket shower. I spent some time in my hammock overlooking the river and the Congo on the other side. Then I couldn’t resist temptation to walk across a fallen log and put a foot across the border into the Congo……dare devil!
Day 6
Had a beautiful bucket shower with more than enough water, before heading towards Bwindi. Hard vehicle suspension and terrible roads make this a very bumpy ride. The landscape is stunning but just as we arrived in Bwindi a downpour of note arrived and we were a bedraggled bunch that arrived at Buhoma Lodge.
Going gorilla trekking in the rain was a distinct possibility and the thought of it caused my nerves set in.
The chalets at Buhoma are all on stilts and overlook the impenetrable forest. Each room has 2 single beds and an ensuite shower with hot water.
Millie and I decided to take a walk through the village where we met the traditional healer and a brewer that makes gin out of banans. We also visited the local school. It was an interesting glimpse into life in Bwindi, but ultimately very contrived with the traditional healer wanting his picture taken all the time.
Back to the lodge for a good sleep before tomorrow’s gorilla trek
Day 7
Woke up after a rather sleepless night eager for the challenge awaiting me. Had a good breakfast and walked down to the check-in for the gorilla walk in the Bwindi Impenetrable Forest – daunting name!
We were told to grab a walking stick and given a debrief before being split into 3 groups. Each group is allowed a maximum of 8 people. We were asked if we wanted porters which is definitely the way to go. Your porter carries your bag (and you, if you are unfit!).
There are a total of 4 habituated gorilla families. Our group being the largest, has a total of 22. Exciting stuff. Finally we are ready to start.
We are told that our gorilla family is on the other side of a rather large mountain. It sounds tough, and it is. We zigzagged our way up the mountain. Slipping and sliding in the mud. Thankfully the porter is there to lend a hand or a quick push up the hill.
Our pathway up was incredible with phenomenal vegetation and loads of chatter amongst the walkers. The pace was easy with a large number of water breaks, breathing breaks and just stops to take in the views. One elderly gent with a bald head worked up a good sweat (as did I) and when the sun hit his head it started steaming. Very funny!
We finally reached the top of the hill and were told to leave everything with the porter except our cameras and rain coats. We slid and scraped our way through the forest until suddenly we were face to face with a large Silverback. There is was, right in front of us, happily munching away and not bothered by us at all.
You have an hour with the gorillas so after 20 minutes with the silverback we carried on to look for the rest of the group. We came across two mothers with babies, another silverback and a young male further in the forest. The mothers were so nurturing with the babies and so calm while we were watching them. What a powerful encounter.
Then the long walk back to the base where we received completion certificates. Then back to the lodge for a well deserved shower.
Day 8
Not as stiff as I thought I would be. Had a great shower and got ready for the next leg of the trip.
Lake Mburo. Beautiful landscape. Saw lots of long horned cows and passed through loads of little villages. The boat ride on the lake was relaxing, but everyone was tired. Saw lots of Fish Eagles, hippo and crocs, but the boat trip in Queen Elizabeth National Park was better.
We all fell into bed at Lake Mburo tented camp.
Day 9
Today we head back to Entebbe. With a stop enroute at a curio shop. Kampala (the capital city and linked to Entebbe) is a big African city with traffic jams like no other. But we finally reach the airport where we say our sad farewells.
