Namibia - Swakopmund and Etosha
Friday, August 4th, 2006Namibia Safari
“You cannot be serious?” These were the first, but embarrassing words out of my mouth when I saw the little plane that was going to take me from Windhoek, Namibias capital city, to the red dunes of Sossusvlei. A 6 seater plane with a lunchbox sized luggage compartment it looked like a radio controlled toy. The pilot assured me that this is the safest type of aircraft in the world and that I was going to have the time of my life!
I managed to squeeze myself into the back seat, and with my knees around my ears we taxied down the runway and into the air. Once I opened my eyes and took a look below me I was hooked. The views were amazing, on the one side of the plane there was flat landscape as far as the eye could see and on the other, little mountains sticking up like pimple. “yay, I am on Safari” I shouted out loudly. Luckily for me, no one else could hear me over the humming of the motor and I was saved from complete embarrassment.
As we got closer to Sossusvlei and the dunes, the landscape turned red. Suddenly there were dunes everywhere, huge sandy mountains jutting up towards the plane. We landed in the middle of this sandy wonderland and the heat hit me like an oven. This was Africa at its best.
Moments later I was welcomed at the Wolwedans Dunes Lodge with a soothing drink and shown to my room. This is one of the lodges that Angelina Jolie and Brad Pitt stayed at while they were in Nambia - a rather exciting thought!
The one side of the room was completely open to the spectacular scenery. I jumped out of the room and landed barefoot on red sand. By now the shadows were playing over the dunes, making them look alive.
Wolwedans Dunes Lodge is situated in the NamibRand Nature Reserve near the Sossusvlei. This upmarket lodge offers solitude to stressed out souls, balanced with superb service and food. Wolwedans opens an intriguing window for you to experience the desert’s awesome grandeur and breathtaking beauty. One thing I can promise you though is that the, tranquility here will clear your mind and give your imagination space to fly!
It was time to fly to Etosha, and this time I was looking forward to it. I wasn’t disappointed. The flight took me over the Sossusvlei dunes across the desert to the coast. We flew over shipwrecks and flamingoes before heading inland over Damaraland.
For the first time in 30 years the great Etosha saltpan was in flood. Namibia had experienced unprecedented rains which turned the usually white pans into great lakes of water. There I was, the sunset reflecting of the water, enjoying a phenomenon that is completely unique and probably won’t happen again in my lifetime. It sent shivers down my spine.
The brand new Onguma Tented Lodge is situated on the Eastern side of Etosha and was to be my home for 2 nights. Smiling, eager faces greeted me and whisked away my luggage. I was escorted to my luxury tent. The tents are huge, with a double bed looking out onto the bush and an open plan bathroom. I made myself a cup of tea and sat down on the veranda to enjoy sounds of the lions roaring close by.
Onguma tented camp is a beguiling mixture of sophistication and relaxations, or elegance and the earth. The rangers that take you into Etosha for game drives really know what they are talking about and give you a rounded experience including big game and birds spiced up with bugs, spoor and plants.
On my way back to Windhoek, there was one important stop to make – Okonjima Bush Lodge, home of the Africat Foundations. This is a non-profit organisation committed to the long-term conservation of Namibia’s large carnivores, especially cheetahs & leopards.
The lodge offers cheetah tracking on foot, leopard tracking, birding and a bushman trail. If big cats are your thing, then Okonjima is not to be missed.
The luxurious rooms at bush camp are open to the elements on three sides, so you feel like you are sleeping in the bush and wake up to the tweeting of birds. I was assured that it was absolutely safe and that no leopards were going to enjoy a piece of me that night! As experiences go, you can’t beat that feeling of being alone in the wild – even if there is another room 25 meters away!!
The moment of departure had to arrive at some stage, but as I sat in the departures lounge at Windhoek Airport I was amazed at how many “firsts” I had experienced in a week: first time in Namibia, first time in a red desert, first time in Etosha (let alone seeing it in flood) and first time patting a leopard. Not bad for a city girl!